Michelin Guide California 2024: Los Angeles Michelin Star Winners and Insights

The Michelin Guide California held its highly anticipated 2024 selection ceremony on August 5 at the Ritz-Carlton in Half Moon Bay. The event celebrated the most ambitious, inventive, and often expensive restaurants across California, shining a spotlight on culinary excellence. The ceremony was not without its technical hiccups, as the official Michelin livestream on YouTube stalled, prompting Eater LA to unofficially livestream the awards on Instagram. Despite these issues, the event successfully honored the culinary elite of the state, with Los Angeles and Orange County being significant focal points.

Los Angeles, a city known for its diverse and dynamic food scene, had a notable presence at this year’s ceremony. Prior to this year, neither Los Angeles nor Orange County boasted any three-Michelin-starred restaurants. However, the region had five two-Michelin-starred places and 23 one-Michelin-starred restaurants in 2023. Some of these, like Taco Maria and Manzke, have since closed, while others like Maude are soon to follow. This year’s ceremony saw new entrants making their mark, including Chef Gilberto Cetina of Holbox, a Mexican seafood counter restaurant, who earned his first Michelin star. Other new one-Michelin-starred entrants included Rebel Omakase in Laguna Beach, Uka at Japan House in Hollywood, and Chef Jordan Kahn’s Meteora.

One of the highlights of the evening was the presentation of the sommelier award to Ian Krupp, the wine director of Anajak Thai Cuisine. This recognition underscores the importance of not just the food but the entire dining experience, including the beverage pairings that can elevate a meal. Vespertine in Culver City was another standout, receiving two Michelin stars and a Green Star award for sustainability. This dual recognition highlights the restaurant’s commitment to both culinary excellence and environmental responsibility, setting a high standard for others to follow.

However, the night was not without its disappointments. Q Sushi in Downtown lost its one Michelin star, and both Sushi Ginza Onodera in Beverly Hills and N/Naka in Palms lost one of their two stars. Chefs Niki and Carole Iida Nakayama of N/Naka released a statement expressing their disappointment but also their determination to continue pursuing excellence. These changes serve as a reminder that maintaining Michelin star status is an ongoing challenge, requiring consistent quality and innovation.

Despite these fluctuations, no restaurants in Los Angeles, Orange County, or the Central Coast were awarded the coveted three stars. This leaves the region still striving for the pinnacle of Michelin recognition. Most of the Michelin-starred restaurants from 2023 retained their ratings, indicating a level of consistency and quality that Michelin inspectors value. The Michelin grading system, which promotes a specific type of fine dining often characterized by expensive, chef-driven restaurants serving Eurocentric or Japanese tasting menus, continues to shape the landscape of high-end dining in Los Angeles.

The history of the Michelin Guide in Los Angeles has been tumultuous. The previous Los Angeles Michelin guide was published in 2008 and 2009 but was dropped under former director Jean-Luc Naret, who controversially stated that people in LA were not interested in eating well. This perception changed in 2019 when the California Tourism Board paid $600,000 to woo the Michelin Guide back to the state. This investment has paid off, as the Michelin Guide now plays a significant role in highlighting the state’s culinary talents.

The impact of the COVID-19 pandemic cannot be overlooked. Michelin did not award stars in 2020 and 2021, a hiatus that reflected the broader challenges faced by the restaurant industry during this period. The return of the awards in 2022 and now in 2023 signifies a resurgence and a renewed focus on culinary excellence. The Michelin grading system, while sometimes criticized for its narrow focus, remains a prestigious benchmark for restaurants around the world.

One of the criticisms of the Michelin rubric is its tendency to overlook many family-run restaurants and street food staples that are integral to Southern California’s dining scene. While the awards may not capture the full scope of Los Angeles’s diverse culinary landscape, they do provide a useful resource for locals and affluent international travelers seeking high-quality dining experiences. The Michelin stars serve as a guide to some of the best that the city has to offer, even if they do not encompass every facet of its rich food culture.

This year’s Michelin Guide California features 577 restaurants across the state, with 85 of them earning stars. Among these, three new one-star ratings were awarded in Los Angeles, and Vespertine in Culver City received two stars. No new three-star ratings were awarded in the state, leaving California with only six three-star restaurants in total. Marisqueria Holbox in South Central LA was among those awarded their first Michelin star, a significant achievement for Chef-owner Gilberto Cetina, whose restaurant was named 2023 Restaurant of the Year.

Melrose fine dining restaurant Meteora, from Vespertine chef Jordan Kahn, also received its first star. Uka, a new kaiseki restaurant in Hollywood, was recognized for their in-house fish curing and aging techniques, adding to the diversity of culinary styles represented in the Michelin Guide. The recognition of these restaurants highlights the evolving nature of Los Angeles’s dining scene, which continues to innovate and push boundaries.

In addition to the star ratings, the Michelin Guide also includes the Bib Gourmand category, which represents good food at a moderate price. There are 132 Bib Gourmand awards in the 2024 guide, including six new entries from Los Angeles. These budget-friendly options provide a more accessible way for diners to experience high-quality cuisine without the hefty price tag often associated with Michelin-starred restaurants. Mae Malai in Thai Town and Liu’s Cafe in Koreatown are among the new Bib Gourmand honorees, showcasing the diverse and affordable dining options available in the city.

The Michelin Guide’s anonymous inspectors play a crucial role in determining which restaurants receive stars. These inspectors travel incognito, sponsored by tourism boards like Visit California, which paid $600,000 in 2019 to expand Michelin’s coverage in the state. The chief inspector for North America expressed delight at seeing local culinary talent recognized, emphasizing the importance of these awards in promoting excellence. The process of evaluating restaurants is rigorous, considering factors such as the quality of ingredients, culinary techniques, flavors, chef’s personality, and consistency.

As the culinary landscape continues to evolve, the Michelin Guide remains a significant influence, shaping perceptions and setting standards for excellence. While it may not capture the full breadth of Los Angeles’s vibrant food scene, it provides a valuable snapshot of the city’s top-tier dining establishments. Congratulations are in order for all the newly awarded restaurants, as they join a prestigious list that continues to define the future of fine dining in Los Angeles and beyond.