Lily Collins, Marylin Fitoussi, Netflix, and the Art of Costume Design in ‘Emily in Paris’

The world of fashion and television converges beautifully in the Netflix series ‘Emily in Paris,’ where Lily Collins stars as the effervescent Emily Cooper. The show has captivated audiences not just with its engaging storyline but also with its spectacular costume design, helmed by the talented Marylin Fitoussi. As the series gears up for its fourth season, fans are eagerly anticipating the new sartorial delights that await them. Fitoussi’s work on the show has been nothing short of revolutionary, blending contemporary trends with classic French chic to create looks that are both aspirational and accessible. Her ability to capture the essence of each character through their wardrobe has made ‘Emily in Paris’ a visual feast for fashion enthusiasts worldwide.

Marylin Fitoussi’s vision for the upcoming season is particularly intriguing as she refers to it as the ‘revenge-style season.’ This concept draws inspiration from the iconic ‘revenge dress’ worn by Princess Diana in 1994, a symbol of empowerment and defiance. Fitoussi believes that revenge dressing is best served with designer labels such as Miu Miu, Harris Reed’s Nina Ricci, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, and Jacquemus. This season, Emily will be channeling fashion icons like Twiggy, Biba, Audrey Hepburn, Françoise Hardy, and the legendary Black and White Ball hosted by Truman Capote. Fitoussi’s goal is to showcase Emily’s evolution as a character through her wardrobe, reflecting her growing confidence and sophistication.

One of the most anticipated elements of the new season is the incorporation of a ball, a key aspect of French culture that Fitoussi has wanted to include since the show’s inception. When a masquerade ball was mentioned in the script, Fitoussi suggested using Truman Capote’s 1966 Black and White Ball at the Plaza Hotel in New York City as a reference. She reached out to British American creative director Harris Reed to design three outfits for the ball, ensuring that each piece would be a showstopper. Emily’s ensemble for the event includes a thick striped black and white jumpsuit with an attachable ball skirt, reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn’s iconic look in ‘My Fair Lady.’

Lily Collins, who plays Emily, bears a striking resemblance to Audrey Hepburn with her petite features and distinct dark eyebrows. This resemblance has allowed Fitoussi to pay homage to Hepburn in various ways throughout the series. In addition to the ball outfit, Emily also channels Hepburn’s winter look from the 1963 film ‘Charade,’ complete with fur and oversized Pierre Marly sunglasses borrowed from the Musée de la Lunette in France. Fitoussi was able to obtain the original sunglasses worn by Hepburn, and when Lily tried them on, it was an emotional moment for both of them. This attention to detail and historical accuracy adds a layer of authenticity to the show’s fashion narrative.

Emily’s wardrobe this season will feature a mix of high-end brands such as Miu Miu, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Jacquemus, Marni, Ozias, La DoubleJ, and Boss. Each outfit is carefully curated to reflect Emily’s evolving style and the various facets of her personality. Her best friend in Paris, Mindy Chen (played by Ashley Park), also boasts a bold and eccentric sense of style. Mindy’s wardrobe includes standout pieces like a graffiti miniskirt and blazer from Philipp Plein and a turquoise jumpsuit from Magda Butrym. Fitoussi believes that fashion should be fun and enjoyed, and Ashley Park’s confidence allows her to pull off even the most daring ensembles.

The influence of fashion extends beyond Emily and Mindy to the other characters in the series. Sylvie, played by Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, discovers a hidden side of herself while in Rome and starts incorporating brands like Saint Laurent and Charlotte Chesnais into her wardrobe. Fitoussi emphasizes that the person wearing the dress is just as important as the dress itself, and Leroy-Beaulieu embodies her character with grace and style. Even minor characters like Julian (played by Samuel Arnold) and Luc (played by Bruno Gouery) have distinct styles that are meticulously designed by Fitoussi. This attention to every character’s wardrobe ensures that the show’s fashion narrative is cohesive and compelling.

Fitoussi’s approach to costume design is not just about showcasing the latest trends but also about telling a story through fashion. She aims to use her platform on the show to highlight designers from around the world, with a particular focus on sustainability and giving young designers a chance to shine. This commitment to ethical fashion is evident in the careful selection of pieces that are not only stylish but also environmentally conscious. By doing so, Fitoussi hopes to inspire viewers to be proud of their own style and embrace individuality, encouraging a more thoughtful and sustainable approach to fashion.

The popularity of ‘Emily in Paris’ has sparked numerous discussions about its portrayal of French culture and fashion. Despite some criticism from French audiences, the show continues to draw viewers, largely due to its captivating fashion choices. Fitoussi has cleverly used the colors of the American and French flags in Emily’s wardrobe to pay homage to both countries, especially since the show was released around the time of the Olympics. This thoughtful integration of cultural elements adds depth to the characters and enriches the viewing experience.

As Emily’s style evolves under the influence of her mentor Sylvie, viewers can see a transformation in her wardrobe that reflects her personal growth. This evolution is a testament to Fitoussi’s skill in developing character arcs through fashion. Mindy Chen’s love for bright colors and clashing prints is another example of how the characters’ styles are tailored to their personalities. Fitoussi does not deliberately follow fashion trends but focuses on creating looks that are true to each character’s identity. This approach ensures that the fashion choices are not only visually appealing but also meaningful.

The show’s ability to blend minimalist and maximalist styles brings a unique spin to classic French chic. Fitoussi’s innovative combinations create a dynamic and diverse fashion landscape that keeps viewers engaged. While it is difficult for Fitoussi to choose a favorite outfit from the show, she admits that there are many looks she loves. However, she did mention one outfit she was not fond of—a combination of a leather jacket, beret, and Saint Laurent cape—which she felt looked too ‘period.’ This candidness about her creative process adds an element of authenticity to her work.

The much-awaited fourth season of ‘Emily in Paris’ is set to debut on Netflix on August 15th, much to the excitement of fans. The end of the third season left viewers eagerly anticipating the next plot twists and fashion moments. The show’s fashion, particularly Emily’s wardrobe choices, has become iconic since its premiere in 2020. Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, who plays Emily’s boss Sylvie Grateau, also has a refined and chic wardrobe that complements her character’s sophisticated demeanor. The transition from Patricia Field’s styling in the initial seasons to Marylin Fitoussi’s vision has brought a fresh perspective to the show’s fashion narrative.

Netflix has released glimpses of the upcoming episodes, showcasing covetable looks that fans are excited to recreate. The fashion in season four continues the show’s reputation for sartorial splendor, offering affordable alternatives for viewers looking to emulate the charming French fashion. One key piece featured in teasers is Emily’s oversized shearling coat from Isabel Marant, which has already garnered attention. Savvy shoppers can find similar styles at a lower price on platforms like Zalando, making high-fashion accessible to a broader audience. The latest season will also highlight popular trends such as trouser suits, with Emily donning a bold cobalt blue suit and Sylvie opting for a classic cream-colored outfit.

The show’s iconic accessory, Emily’s red beret, remains a must-have for fans seeking a touch of French flair. While the exact piece may be challenging to find, there are plenty of high-street versions available. The new season promises an abundance of style inspiration, including vivid color blocks and whimsical pattern mixing. Fans can look forward to tips on recreating the elegant looks of their favorite characters, whether they are avid followers of the show or simply interested in French fashion. The upcoming season is sure to bring a wealth of new sartorial pleasures, further solidifying ‘Emily in Paris’ as a fashion-forward series.

In conclusion, ‘Emily in Paris’ is more than just a television show; it is a celebration of fashion, culture, and individuality. The collaboration between Lily Collins, Marylin Fitoussi, and Netflix has resulted in a series that is as visually stunning as it is entertaining. The meticulous attention to detail in the costume design, the thoughtful integration of cultural elements, and the commitment to sustainability make ‘Emily in Paris’ a standout in the world of television fashion. As fans eagerly await the release of the new season, they can look forward to a continuation of the show’s legacy of style and sophistication. Whether you are a fashion enthusiast or simply a fan of the series, ‘Emily in Paris’ offers a delightful escape into a world where fashion reigns supreme.